Surviving (and loving) your first Georgian supra

A supra is not a dinner; it is a liturgy with wine. The tamada — toastmaster — sets the order: to peace, to ancestors, to women, to guests. You drink at the toast, never between them, and never with beer.

Go hungry, pace yourself on the amber wine, and when the horn comes around, remember: it cannot be put down until it is empty. Our Kakheti journeys always include a family supra — it is the fastest way to understand why nobody leaves Georgia on schedule.